The Accutron F.A.Q. Page
Copyright  2002 by Martin Marcus. All rights reserved.
These pages may not be copied without written consent.
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 Most Frequently Asked Question:  Why is my 214 running super fast?

 01. How can I tell the age of my watch?  

 02. Can I still get a battery for my Accutron 214 wristwatch?  

 03. How can I tell if my watch is a model 214?  

 04. Does Bulova still repair the 214 and can I get parts?  

 05. How do I identify my particular model & what information is coded into the serial number?  

 06. Why does the second hand jump when my watch is shaken or set and is it OK?  

 07. My 214 sometimes makes a sort of buzzing/whining  sound. Is this a problem and if so, what is it?

 08. Which band or bracelet came on my watch when it was new?

 09. I installed a new battery in my 214 but it won't run and it doesn't hum any more. What's wrong with it?

 10. Is it OK to run an Accutron that has been in storage for a long time?

 11. What is the value of my watch?

 12. How do I know if my Spaceview is a conversion?

 13. What is the difference between a deceptive conversion and an honest one?

 14. Is the red second hand on my Spaceview correct?

 15. Why does my Accutron seem to run slower when I don't wear it?

 16. What is a hack and what does it do?

 17. Should I stop my Accutron when I'm not wearing it?

 18. What should I do if my 214 won't start with a new battery?

 19. Is it true that the 360 cycle/second hum of an Accutron  has a calming effect on the wearer?

 20. What musical note is the Accutron hum closest to?

 #1   Q.  How can I tell the age of my watch?

 A.  Bulova marks the date on their watch cases and movements as follows. On the back of the watch at the bottom of the rear cover there is a letter followed by a number. On all 214 models, the letter will be either an “M” or an “N” and it represents the decade in which the watch was made. M=1960’s and N=1970’s. The number following the letter is the year of manufacture.   Examples: M0=1960, N4=1974. The 1975 Accutron "Anniversary Spaceview" (Bulova 1875/1975) has no date code. 

Movements are usually stamped with a date code on the back at the 12 o'clock position. Some 1960/61 movements have no date code.

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 #2   Q.  Can I still get a battery for my Accutron 214 wristwatch?

 A.  The Accutron circuit was designed to run with 1.35V mercury batteries which are no longer available in the USA. Readily available #387S or #394 batteries are the exact same physical size as the original 214 batteries. Make sure that you use the plastic sleeve that was on your old battery if the new battery doesn't have one.
Modern 1.55V silver oxide batteries work well for most 214's but a small percentage will run incredibly fast due to the additional .2 volts. The micro-thin coil wire used in your 214 is already working against the ravages of age. Running an over-voltage of .2V through the delicate wire can't possibly be a good idea and the other components in the circuit will not benefit either. Even if your 214 runs well with the new batteries, the longevity of your coil could be at risk. There is no longer any doubt that all 214's will benefit from a reduction in voltage back to the original 1.35 volts. Fortunately there is a way to permanently solve the problem. A diode which lowers battery voltage in the circuit by 0.2 volts can be installed in the coil. This is really the best possible solution to the problem. The watch will perform as it did when new, battery issues will be resolved, and the life of the coil will be extended. Whether actually needed or not, this inexpensive modification is highly recommended. It is not noticeable and it is reversible. See the information at:  http://www.accutron214.com/AccutronBattery.htm

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 #3   Q.  How can I tell if my watch is a model 214?

 A.  If your watch sets from the rear of the case it is a 214 movement. Think of it as a 1st. edition Accutron.

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 #4   Q.  Does Bulova still repair the 214 and can I get parts?

 A.  Bulova stopped repairing or making parts for Accutron 214 watches years ago. Most of the repair parts used today are taken from movements that have been salvaged from trashed cases. Some are obtained from estate sales and retired watchmakers.

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 #6   Q.  Why does the second hand jump when my watch is shaken or set and is it OK?

 A.  It's perfectly normal. 214's have a lot of backlash in the gears. This is necessary due to the very light force that the tuning fork is capable of exerting on the gear train. You will notice that although the second hand sometimes jumps when you set the time, or bump the watch against something, the hand will wait until the backlash is used up and then start to turn again without losing a second.

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 #8   Q.  Which band or bracelet came on my watch when it was new?

 A.  I wouldn't know exactly which band came on your watch from the factory but I do know that the Accutron line was sold exclusively by jewelers who would swap the band on any Accutron for another which was more to the buyers liking at the time of sale. We do know that precious metal cases came with leather bands because the contact between a metal bracelet and the soft case eventually causes damage to the inside of the lugs. Many customers opted for metal bracelets anyway. Accutrons are authentic when sporting any Accutron band or bracelet that was available at the time of original sale.

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 #9   Q.  My watch stopped so I installed a new battery but it won't run and it doesn't hum any more. What's wrong?

 A.  If the watch doesn't hum the coil is probably bad. The wire on an Accutron coil is so thin (0.0006" diameter) that it can be easily broken.  Coil wire can become brittle while the watch is in storage with no battery installed due to repeated expansion and contraction of the wire over the course of many years. Momentary heat generated by high start-up current is usually the proverbial "straw that brakes the camels back". Occasionally the soldered ends of the wire break at the terminal where the wire goes into the coil. A very few of these coils (perhaps 1 out of 10) can be repaired by applying a conductive compound to the break. Most shorted coils have a break within the windings and can't be repaired.

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 #10   Q.  Is it OK to run an Accutron that has been in storage for a long time?

 A.   It is definitely not OK.  This is one of the common reasons why coils and index wheels fail. When a movement has not been serviced in many years the old oil dries up like paint and the gear train becomes hard to turn. In addition one or more parts of the movement can rust from moisture causing a jammed gear train. Either of these problems will inevitably cause two kinds of damage.

1.  The amperage in the coil rises and eventually the coil fails. Accutron coil wire is so thin (0.0006" diameter) that it doesn't take much to cause it to break or for the insulation to fail. Think of it as an electric motor. Motors have a built-in fan to keep them cool. When an electric motor is prevented from turning it will heat up to the point where smoke pours out of it as its' coil burns up. Repeated thermal expansion and contraction eventually leads to metal fatigue and it seems obvious to me that even a small amount of sudden thermal expansion of the delicate wire won't do the coil any good. When an Accutron is started up there is a momentary spike in the amps through the coil. It is possible for a weak or failing coil to die at the moment electricity is applied. Anyone who has had a light bulb burn out instantly when the light is switched on, has witnessed the damage that starting current can do to a filament that is already weakened from metal fatigue. 

2.  The tiny jewel that pushes the index wheel (ratchet) will poke at the wheel which now offers increased resistance to turning causing damage to the tiny teeth. 

A clean, well lubricated Accutron will run cool and happy for a long time. I recommend a service interval of 3 to 5 years.

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 #11   Q.  What is the value of my watch?

 A.  This is an impossible one to answer without inspecting the movement as well as the condition of all of the external parts. The value of any watch depends on many factors. The first and most important factor is supply and demand. There are some 214 models that came out in the 70's that are fairly rare but because they are not particularly attractive, they are not in demand. There are some models that are very popular but because they are plentiful, they are not particularly expensive. If lots of people want a particular watch and there aren't many of them available, the value of that watch will be higher. How high will be determined by the following factors in order of importance:

 RARITY: 
Most Rare to Most Common (this list should not be considered definitive, it is not based on statistical evidence) 

 *  Any model in solid Platinum
 **  Solid gold models from 1960. (M0)
 ***  TV Case: 14kt Solid gold. (asymmetrical TV shaped case)
 ***  Alpha Spaceview: 14kt Solid gold. (shield shaped case)
 ***  Spaceview: 14kt Solid gold. (round case w/sculpted lugs)
 ***  Alpha: 14kt Solid gold w/Diamond or Plain Dial.
Astronaut: 18 or 14kt Solid Gold. 
Spaceview: 18 or 14kt Gold.
Doctors Pulsation: 18 or 14kt Gold.  (dial w/Caduceus emblem)
Astronaut with 14kt Gold Bezel Ring & Gold-Filled Bezel. 
Asymmetrical Model: 1960 (M0) - Stainless Steel w/14kt gold inserts.
Doctors Pulsation: Gold Filled or Stainless Steel  (dial w/Caduceus emblem)
Anniversary Spaceview 1975 - Stainless Steel Bezel
Anniversary Spaceview 1975 - Gold Plated Bezel
Chapter Ring Spaceview: Gold Filled or Stainless Steel.
Swiss Chapter Ring Spaceview: Gold Plated or Stainless Steel.
Astronaut - Stainless Steel
Railroad Approved: Gold Filled or Stainless Steel. (w/red 24 hr. and black 12 hr. dial)
Railroad Approved:Gold Filled or Stainless Steel. (w/black 12 hr. dial only)
Gold Filled or Stainless Steel w/diamond Dial.
Gold Filled or Stainless Steel w/Plain Dial. (The price of plain dial models also depends on the dial. Some dials are in demand, others are not.)

 *  The great majority of these extremely rare platinum 214's were purchased by the US Government to be given as gifts of state.
 **  Distribution and sale of the 214 began in November of 1960 so it's not surprising that watches dated M0 (1960) are fairly rare.
 ***  18kt is extremely rare in this model. They were purchased by special order only.

 CONDITION: 

 Worst Case:  “not currently working”, “does not hum”, “setting stem does not work”, “missing parts” corrosion in movement", “badly scratched, corroded, and/or dented case”, “discolored dial and hands”, “chipped or missing luminous paint”, “has no watchband” “good for parts only”. 

 Poor:  “hums but not currently working”, “sets properly”, “scratched on case and crystal”, “discolored dial and hands”, “chipped or missing luminous paint”, “has a scratched, dented, and dirty  watchband”.

 Average:  “works”, “needs frequent re-setting”, “sets properly”, “scratches on case and crystal”, “dial and hands fairly clean”, “luminous paint may be discolored”, “has a reasonably clean watchband”, “could be used as-is”. 

 Good:  “works and keeps time within 5 minutes per month ”, “sets properly”, “minor scratches on case and crystal”, “dial and hands clean with intact luminous paint”, “luminous paint slightly discolored”, “has a new watchband or an  old, signed Accutron band”. 

 Excellent:  “works and keeps accurate time”, “sets properly”, “faint scratches on case and crystal that could be polished out”, “dial and hands clean with intact luminous paint”, “luminous paint is pale green with minimal discoloration”, “has a clean attractive Accutron band”. 

 Mint:  “works and keeps accurate time”, “sets properly”, “no scratches or dings on case or crystal”, “dial and hands perfect with intact luminous paint”, “luminous paint is pale green with no discoloration”, “has an original, signed, clean and undamaged Accutron watchband”. 

 Like New:  “a mint watch with its original movement and band also in mint condition”. It is assumed that the watch was never altered from its original state. It should be noted that many old 214 watches have had their movements replaced with newer ones at the factory. This happened because Bulova often replaced an entire movement rather than repair one that was seriously damaged in a fall or from corrosion. Also be aware that there are watches out there that are assembled from parts of other watches so that the movement may be much older or newer than the case would indicate. Original watches that were assembled at the beginning or end of the year sometimes came with a movement which was made in the previous or following years production, but never with more then a one year mismatch to the case".

 New Old Stock:  Brand new, never worn.

 ADDITIONAL FACTORS: 

 Personalization:  Unless the watch was owned by someone of importance, personal engraving will decrease the value of any watch considerably. If such a connection can be authenticated by photographic, or documentary evidence to establish provenance, memorabilia collectors could drive the price up dramatically.

 Color:  White gold is generally rarer than yellow and is highly prized.

 Recently Serviced:  Any vintage watch that has been recently serviced is worth more at time of sale due to the expectation of fewer problems and greater dependability.

 Warranty:   A one year warranty is worth about 50% of the basic service charge.

 Original Boxes:  No small  detail. If you have the original case and outer cardboard box along with the Accutron coin and papers the value increases considerably.  

 First Edition:  The first of its kind and/or the first year of production of a particular model. Depending on model and condition the value of "First Edition" 214 Accutrons will be much higher than most of the 218 and its variants that came after it.

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 #12   Q.  How do I know if my Spaceview is a conversion?

 A.   First we need to establish what the various terms really mean.

"Spaceview" is the suffix that Bulova added to the model name or number for the very few Accutron models which were produced without dials. It simply means that the movement can be seen.

"Factory Spaceview" is not an official name, it is a descriptive term meaning that the watch left the factory as a Spaceview model.

"Genuine Spaceview" means that the watch is "as factory" and as such you could never be certain if it is a factory Spaceview or a correctly done, "as factory" conversion.

"Converted Spaceview" means that the dial has been removed. Most conversions can be spotted because of errors or inconsistencies in the conversion process.

Most of the 214 Spaceview watches found today are conversions. Because of the popularity and added value of Spaceview models, brand new crystals that fit non-Spaceview models are being printed with Accutron markings today. These Spaceview crystal sizes were not made by Bulova and therefore were not available in the sixties and seventies so they couldn't have been converted at the time of sale. These watches were originally manufactured with dials. At some point the dials were removed and a Spaceview crystal was installed to simulate a genuine Spaceview model. The results vary wildly. Most of the 214 case styles made by Bulova were never sold as Spaceview models and the conversions are easily detected. Others are very difficult to spot. A properly done conversion is indistinguishable from the factory model and a few of the converted models are so attractive that they are highly sought after.  Here are some things you can look for to spot an imperfect conversion. 

Hands:
The hands are the best tip-off. With the exception of Swiss Spaceviews which have gold or nickel plated hands, 1960's Spaceview hands were painted flat white. The original white paint should appear pebbly under magnification. The hour and minute hands always had luminous centers which makes it difficult to paint a gold or silver hand white without getting some paint on the luminous. That doesn't stop some dealers from simply painting over the entire hand, luminous and all.

From 1960, the year of introduction, through 1969, Spaceview second hands were always white. In 1969 a Spaceview model (the "Cushion Case") with an orange second hand was introduced. Other models followed that had orange or red second hands. Over the years many of the orange hands have faded to yellow. 

Some case styles were always made with specific hand styles and these combinations changed with time, therefore, visual familiarity is required to spot a wrong combination.

Chapter Ring:
A chapter ring (Bulova calls it a reflector) is a metal ring with minute and hour markings that fits under the crystal just above where the dial normally would be. The chapter ring case is specially machined to accept the reflector leaving room for the crystal to be pressed in on top of it. Minute markers are painted around the ring with a luminous dot or dash at 12:00 O’clock and luminous dashes at hours 1:00 through 11:00 O’clock or at 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 O'clock. Some conversions are fitted with a dial that has had its middle cut out to leave just the hour/minute markers. This simulated chapter ring method has tricked many novices into paying too much for watches that are easily seen as phonies by an experienced buyer. Take note as to whether the ring is concave (dished) or convex (spherical). Genuine rings are concave and cutout dials are always convex.

Cases:
When a wrong case style is converted to a Spaceview the result looks odd to a collector. Again, visual familiarity is necessary to spot the conversion. A list of case styles known to have been made as Spaceview models is printed below. On the inside of the rear cover of your watch, there is a painted or stamped case number. Look for that number on the following list.

Spaceview case numbers as listed in my 1974 Accutron Case Parts Catalog

The following case numbers are commonly found on Spaceview watches today but as of 1974 they were not listed by Bulova as cases that used Spaceview crystals. It remains an open question as to whether they were offered as Spaceview models by Bulova or converted by dealers. Logic would dictate that if Bulova made Spaceview crystals for these cases those crystals would be listed with the suffix "S" or "SL" ("Spaceview" or "Spaceview Luminous") next to the case numbers in the Accutron Case Parts Catalog.

 #13   Q.  What is the difference between a deceptive conversion and an honest one.

 A.  This is my version of a converted Spaceview: Click Here. It does not attempt to simulate an original Spaceview but rather creates a new, honest, non-factory Spaceview which will never need an increasingly rare and expensive Spaceview crystal replacement.

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 #14   Q.  Is the red second hand on my Spaceview correct?

 A.  These days, most of the people who convert 214's to "Spaceview" models, and re-sell them, are painting the second hands red. A red second hand on any Spaceview should be viewed with suspicion and particularly if the date code is M9 (1969) or earlier. The only 214's that came from the factory with a red second hand prior to 1969 was the Railroad Approved model. During the early years all U.S. Spaceview models had white second hands and all Swiss Spaceview hands were gold or nickel plated. During the 70's when the 218 was king and 214 sales were lagging, Bulova introduced a few new Spaceview models which had red second hands but they did not sell very well and so we don't see very many of them.

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 #15   Q.  Why does my Accutron seem to run slower when I don't wear it?

 A.  Try this yourself. Take the battery out of the watch and hold it in either hand. With the other hand smack the watch case on the side (at 3 or 9 o'clock) so as to cause the tuning fork to vibrate. Immediately observe the second hand. You will notice that the movement will run for a few seconds without a battery. Now replace the battery and imagine what happens when the movement is shocked while it is running. The answer is that the movement will gain a fraction of a second each time the tuning fork is given some extra energy due to shock or  vibration. This tendency of the watch to run faster when in motion has to be compensated for by adjusting the movement to lose two seconds a day when at rest.

Putting these two influences together causes them to pretty much cancel each other out when the watch is worn.

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The "hack spring" is highlighted in the photo above left. Correct adjustment of this feature is critical.

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 #17   Q.  Should I stop my Accutron when I'm not wearing it?

 A.  Opinions vary on this one.

NOT TO RUN: Although it takes many years to accumulate any appreciable wear on a 214 mechanism, many collectors feel that there is no point in adding unnecessary wear to a movement or coil that may already be borderline.

Copyright  2002 by Martin Marcus. All rights reserved.
These pages may not be copied without written consent.

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